ISLAND ART GUIDES:Spetses-Let’s Go to Agora…, Curated by Pouc Anastasiou

“Let’s go to Agora” the women of Spetses used to say as they walked down to Dapia for their daily shopping. Back then, there weren’t dozens of shops or endless choices. The stores were few, each with its own distinct character. Yet they possessed a kind of magic that is hard to find today.

At Akasoglou’s, you could find nails, hammers, pipes, screws—anything you needed to repair your home. With its dark interior and permanently cool atmosphere, the shop could easily have been the setting of an old Greek film or even a mystery movie. As soon as you walked in, Mr. Akasoglou himself would always be standing behind the counter to your left, ready to help in his famously stern but dependable manner. The shelves, stretching almost to the ceiling, were filled with thousands of hidden treasures. Years later, the building became the island’s newspaper agency, and we all continued to stop by almost every day, perhaps unknowingly searching for a familiar piece of the past.

 

The iconic Sgontzos department store was, without exaggeration, the Harrods of Spetses. Housed in one of the island’s most beautiful architectural buildings, it was once the destination for every elegant lady looking for silk scarves, stockings, or the famous Triumph lingerie.

Over the years, however, it evolved into the place where you could truly find everything—from fabrics, tablecloths, and sewing threads to beach towels. A little paradise for every home.

 

Fortunately, the building was recently restored and continues to operate under new ownership, which has respected both its history and architecture, preserving one of the island’s true gems.

Another shop I adored as a child was Kafkalithra, owned by the mother of artist Leda Papaconstantinou.

 

Looking back today, I believe it may have been the island’s very first true concept store.

 

Hand-painted wooden mermaids and sailing ships, handcrafted horseshoes and pebbles, little wooden chests decorated with copper cut-out mermaids… every object was full of imagination and personality. Each one unique.

 

My mother’s Italian friends, who spent an entire month in Spetses every summer, never failed to visit. They looked forward to discovering the latest handmade leather belts adorned with beads or choosing from the vibrant Indian silk kaftans overflowing from large woven baskets—the merchandising display of its time.

 

 

 

 

I only wish Kafkalithra still existed today. It would have much to teach modern retail about aesthetics and storytelling.

 

But times change, and every generation writes its own story.

 

Today, for me, that story is being written by REM, the beautiful boutique created by Paraskevi Papadea.

 

A store with a distinctive identity that has become a true reference point for the fashion and lifestyle scene of Spetses.

 

Here you’ll discover Kashish’s beautiful tie-dyed silk beach dresses, the distinctive jewelry of Alexandra Tsoukala—herself deeply connected to the island—as well as the trendiest gifts, T-shirts, jockey caps, bag charms, and much more featuring the motto “It’s Better in Spetses,” all designed exclusively by wrap studio for REM.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But REM is much more than just a boutique.

You stop by to say good morning to Paraskevi, see what new arrivals have come in, and before you know it, your friends have walked through the door too, already deciding whether the next stop will be Zogeria Beach or Agia Paraskevi.

It is a meeting place.

 

 

The door never stops opening and closing. You sip your coffee while browsing endless racks of clothing. Shopping bags continue to fill up, and somehow the merchandise never seems to run out.

Every week brings new arrivals—from small Greek artisans to carefully selected imports from India and other corners of the world. The search never stops. Throughout the winter, Paraskevi travels, explores, and handpicks every collection, ensuring her customers can find pieces in Spetses that they are unlikely to discover anywhere else.

 

Perhaps, though, REM’s greatest secret isn’t its fashion.

 

It’s Paraskevi herself.

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She knows almost every customer by name. She immediately understands what they’re looking for, effortlessly suggests the perfect outfit for a day at the beach or an evening gathering, and makes every woman feel less like a customer and more like part of a close-knit community.

 

 

So, the next time you stroll through the market of Spetses, make REM your first stop.

 

You may leave with a beautiful dress, a thoughtful gift, or a new piece of jewelry. But you may also leave with something far more valuable—the feeling that, even if only for a little while, you’ve become part of the island’s everyday life.

Because that is what the market of Spetses truly is.

It isn’t just about the shops.

It’s about the people.

And somehow, even today, in Spetses we still say, “Let’s go to Agora.”

 

Only now, for many of us, the first stop has a name.

REM.

 

 

 

 

 

Photo: Pouc Anastasiou’s Archive

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